# Iraqi Journeys with Ali - complete reference > Private guided expeditions through the real Iraq with Ali Jasim, a local guide born in Najaf and based in Baghdad. Founded 2016. 70+ tours completed, 1,500+ travelers from 20+ countries. Every tour is led personally by Ali and booked directly through this website. Booking: a 30% deposit confirms (Western Union, bank transfer or Wise); the balance is due 30 days before departure. No online payment - this site never charges a card. Free cancellation up to 60 days before departure; 50% refund 30-60 days out. Visa on arrival is available for most nationalities at Baghdad, Erbil, Basra and Najaf airports. Languages: English, Arabic, Kurdish. ## Credits - Tour guide & content owner: Ali Jasim — the expeditions, itineraries, photos and stories are his. - Web designer & engineer: Haze Dawn/Suhaib A. Al-Joubori — designed and built this site. ## How to book 1. Browse the [expeditions](https://iraqijourneys.com/tours) or design a [custom journey](https://iraqijourneys.com/design-your-trip). 2. Submit the inquiry form - Ali confirms availability personally within 24 hours. 3. Pay the 30% deposit to hold seats; the balance is due 30 days before departure. 4. Track the booking anytime via the personal tracking link (no account needed). ## Contact - Email: ali@iraqijourneys.com - WhatsApp: +964 773 539 7443 - Base: Baghdad, Iraq ## Expeditions ### Iraqi Kurdistan Trek - Price: $2200 per person · Duration: 10 Days / 9 Nights · Difficulty: Challenging · Region: Northern Iraq - Cities: Erbil, Shanidar, Rawanduz, Amedi, Dohuk, Lalish, Alqosh, Sulaymaniyah, Dukan, Ahmed Awa, Akre - Departures: 2026-09-10 to 2026-09-19 (3 seats left); 2026-10-22 to 2026-10-31 (5 seats left); 2027-05-06 to 2027-05-15 (8 seats left) **Summary:** Ten days in the Zagros - trekking above Rawanduz, the citadel of Amedi, and the holy valley of Lalish. Ten days in Iraqi Kurdistan: the Zagros mountains, the citadel of Erbil, the Neanderthal cave of Shanidar, the cliff monastery of Rabban Hormizd, and the 500 steps that climb to the citadel of Akre. The days are real trekking; the evenings are tea and conversation. Ali knows this land as home and leads the trek himself. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Arrival in Erbil: Erbil International Airport, then the Erbil Citadel - continuously inhabited for more than 6,000 years - and the Qaysari Bazaar below it: textile dyers, cardamom, bargaining in three languages. - Day 2 - Shanidar Cave & Rawanduz: Shanidar Cave in Barzan, where the remains of ten Neanderthals have been found - the last of them dating back more than 70,000 years. Continue through the mountains to Rawanduz: the great canyon and the Hamilton Road, cut into the cliff face. - Day 3 - Rawanduz Trek: A full day in the Zagros. Gali Ali Beg, Kurdistan's most famous waterfall, in the afternoon, with the option of a night camp at the Bekhal falls. - Day 4 - Amedi & Dohuk: Amedi, perched on its flat-topped mesa 3,900 feet above the plain - the town that never added a house - through the Badinan Gate to the Great Mosque. Continue to Dohuk. - Day 5 - Lalish & Alqosh: Lalish, the holiest temple of the Yazidi faith, in its valley among the oaks. Then Alqosh: the old village on the mountainside, the Rabban Hormizd Monastery carved into the rock, and the restored tomb of the Prophet Nahum. - Day 6 - Sulaymaniyah: The Amna Suraka museum of the Anfal era, the Grand Bazaar and the Qashla. The Roman Theater in Azadi Park - the second-largest park in the Middle East - and Salim Street for the city's cafe life at night. - Day 7 - Sulaymaniyah Trek & Dukan: Trek the valleys around the city. Lunch at Dukan with the Lower Zab spread out below the dam. - Day 8 - Ahmed Awa Waterfall: The waterfall east of Sulaymaniyah, and the green valleys around it. - Day 9 - Akre & Return to Erbil: Akre: its mosque, its market, and the climb of 500 steps between the old houses to the citadel - the path the town follows at Newroz. Sunset from the top, then the drive back and a farewell dinner in the Erbil Citadel. - Day 10 - Departure: Transfer to Erbil International Airport. **Included:** All accommodations (boutique hotels & mountain lodges); Private 4x4 transportation; English-speaking guide (Ali); All trekking permits; All entrance fees; Shanidar Cave, Alqosh and Akre Citadel visits; Breakfast and dinner daily; Airport transfers **Not included:** International flights; Travel insurance; Visa fees; Lunches; Personal expenses; Tips - Full page: https://iraqijourneys.com/tours/iraqi-kurdistan-trek ### Mesopotamia Odyssey - Price: $1850 per person · Duration: 7 Days / 6 Nights · Difficulty: Moderate · Region: Southern Iraq - Cities: Baghdad, Babylon, Hillah, Kish, Sippar, Karbala, Najaf, Samarra, Ctesiphon - Departures: 2026-10-01 to 2026-10-07 (5 seats left); 2026-11-12 to 2026-11-18 (8 seats left); 2027-03-04 to 2027-03-10 (10 seats left) **Summary:** Seven days through the heart of Mesopotamia: Baghdad, Babylon, the holy cities, and Samarra's spiral. Seven days through the heart of Mesopotamia. Baghdad's bookshops and its Ottoman clock tower, the Ishtar Gate and the Lion of Babylon, the gold dome of Najaf, the spiral of Samarra. This edition adds the last gate of old Baghdad's walls, the lost city-states of Kish and Sippar, and a dawn walk through Wadi al-Salam, the largest cemetery in the world. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Arrival in Baghdad: Meet & assist at Baghdad International Airport, transfer to the hotel. Evening welcome dinner overlooking the Tigris. - Day 2 - Exploring Baghdad: Start the day like Baghdad does, with kahi and gaimar. Then the Iraqi National Museum, Al-Mustansiriya School and the historic souks: Bab Al-Wastani, the last surviving gate of the old city walls, the Qishla with its Ottoman clock tower, Souq Al-Saray where the calligraphers work, and Al-Mutanabbi Street with its bookshops and tea houses. - Day 3 - Babylon, Kish & Sippar: A full day in the ancient world's greatest city: the Ishtar Gate, the Lion of Babylon, the Processional Street and the site of the Hanging Gardens. Then Kish, one of the first centers of power in Mesopotamia, and Sippar, the holy city of the sun god Shamash. Sunset from the hill above the ruins, over Hilla. - Day 4 - Karbala & Najaf: Start before the crowds in Wadi al-Salam. The shrines of Imam Hussein and Al-Abbas in Karbala, then Najaf: the shrine of Imam Ali, the old alleys inside the city walls, and the street of bookstores. Khan Al-Musallah, the caravanserai where traders and pilgrims once rested, is on the way. - Day 5 - Samarra: The Malwiya, nine coils of brick rising 52 metres over the plain, and the seventeen hectares of its Great Mosque. The Abu Dulaf Minaret, the Pool Palace with its great water basin, and the historic prison of Imam Ali al-Hadi. Return to Baghdad. - Day 6 - Ctesiphon & Diyala: Taq Kasra, the great pre-Islamic arch of Ctesiphon, and the date palm groves of Diyala. The afternoon is yours; a Tigris river tour and the Abu Nuwas corniche are optional. - Day 7 - Departure: Transfer to Baghdad International Airport. **Included:** All accommodations (4-star hotels & heritage lodges); Private air-conditioned transportation; English-speaking local guide (Ali); All entrance fees to historical sites; Breakfast and dinner daily; Kahi and gaimar traditional breakfast; Airport transfers; 24/7 support during the trip **Not included:** International flights; Travel insurance; Visa fees; Lunches and beverages; Personal expenses; Tips for guides and drivers - Full page: https://iraqijourneys.com/tours/mesopotamia-odyssey ### Mesopotamian Marshes Expedition - Price: $1500 per person · Duration: 5 Days / 4 Nights · Difficulty: Easy · Region: Southern Iraq - Cities: Basra, Nasiriyah, Ur, Chibayish, Qurna - Departures: 2026-10-15 to 2026-10-19 (6 seats left); 2026-11-26 to 2026-11-30 (4 seats left); 2027-04-08 to 2027-04-12 (6 seats left) **Summary:** Five days in the Garden of Eden: Ur, the marshes, and the meeting of the two rivers. Five days in the Garden of Eden. The Ziggurat of Ur, the oldest arch in history and the royal cemetery of the Sumerian kings; then the marshes themselves, poled through channels where the reeds rise above a man on horseback. You cook dinner with a Ma'dan family, wake for breakfast on the water before sunrise, and sleep one night under the stars. At Qurna, the Tigris and the Euphrates finally meet. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Ur & Nasiriyah: Meet at Basra International Airport (Nasiriyah possible on request), then Ur: the great ziggurat, the Dublal-makh temple, the oldest courthouse and the oldest arch of its kind in the world, the royal palace and the royal cemetery. Local lunch and the Nasiriyah museum on the way back. - Day 2 - Marshes Exploration: A special day in the marsh channels: watch the sunset from the water, then prepare dinner with a local Ma'dan family. Between the two, a traditional boat through the reeds, a visit to a reed house, and the water buffalo that the whole life of the marshes turns on. - Day 3 - Deep Marshes Camping: Before sunrise, breakfast cooked by the marsh dwellers, then deeper into the channels. Campfire dinner under the stars. - Day 4 - Qurna & Basra: Qurna, where the Tigris and Euphrates meet to form the Shatt al-Arab, and Adam's Tree, where tradition says the prophet Ibrahim prayed. Basra: the Shanasheel balconies of the old town, the date palm orchards, and a boat ride on the Shatt al-Arab. - Day 5 - Departure: Transfer to Basra International Airport. **Included:** All accommodations (including a local marsh homestay and camping); Traditional mashoof boat rides; English-speaking guide; All meals; Sunset dinner prepared with a Ma'dan family; Sunrise breakfast in the marshes; Nasiriyah museum; Qurna confluence and Adam's Tree; Camping equipment; Airport transfers **Not included:** International flights; Travel insurance; Visa fees; Personal expenses; Tips - Full page: https://iraqijourneys.com/tours/mesopotamian-marshes ### Northern Odyssey - Price: $1750 per person · Duration: 6 Days / 5 Nights · Difficulty: Moderate · Region: Northern Iraq - Cities: Erbil, Mosul, Nineveh, Nimrud, Hatra, Hammam Al-Alil, Kirkuk, Qaraqosh, Mar Mattai - Departures: 2026-11-05 to 2026-11-10 (7 seats left); 2027-02-18 to 2027-02-23 (9 seats left); 2027-04-22 to 2027-04-27 (10 seats left) **Summary:** Six days in the north: the rebuilt mosque of Mosul, Hatra, and the Assyrian capitals. Six days in the north: the rebuilt Al-Nuri Mosque of Mosul, the Hatra of the Parthians that Rome never took, the Assyrian capitals of Nineveh and Nimrud, the church where Pope Francis prayed in Qaraqosh, and the monastery of Mar Mattai on its mountain. This edition adds the church square of Hosh al-Bieaa, the shrine of Prophet Jonah above its hidden Assyrian palace, the sulfur springs of Hammam Al-Alil, and the Baytna Foundation, which rebuilt a Mosul house from the rubble into a cafe. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Arrival in Mosul: Meet at Erbil International Airport and drive across the plains to Mosul, about ninety minutes. The reconstructed Al-Nuri Mosque and the leaning Hadba Minaret, rebuilt under the UNESCO Revive the Spirit of Mosul initiative. In the evening, Hosh al-Bieaa, where four churches of different denominations gather around one cathedral, and dinner at the Antica cafe, which grew out of a house rebuilt from rubble by the Baytna Foundation. - Day 2 - Nineveh & Nimrud: Sunrise over the Tigris from Bashtabia castle, with a lah'am b'ajeen breakfast. The ancient wall of Nineveh and one of its eighteen gates, the Shamash Gate, then Nimrud, the Assyrian capital. The shrine of Prophet Jonah, with the remains of the Assyrian palace beneath it. - Day 3 - Hatra & Hammam Al-Alil: Hatra, the City of the Sun: the double walls, the great iwans still standing to full height, the Temple of the Sun and the goddess Shahiro, whose story says that even in the desert the light returns. The stones still carry the bullet marks of 2015; the walls are rising again. On the way back, the sulfur springs of Hammam Al-Alil. - Day 4 - Kirkuk & Baba Gurgur: Kirkuk: the archaeological citadel where mosques, churches and shrines of prophets stand side by side, the wax museum in the Qashla, and the eternal flame of Baba Gurgur. - Day 5 - Qaraqosh & Mar Mattai: Qaraqosh: the Grand Al-Tahira Church, the largest in Iraq, where Pope Francis prayed in 2021, and the Syriac heritage museum. Then Mar Mattai, the Syriac Orthodox monastery high on its mountain; a night there is possible on request. - Day 6 - Departure: Transfer to Erbil International Airport. **Included:** All accommodations (including a heritage hotel in Mosul); Private transportation; English-speaking guide; All entrance fees; Breakfast and dinner daily; Qaraqosh church, Mar Mattai monastery, Hammam Al-Alil hot springs and Baytna Foundation visits; Airport transfers **Not included:** International flights; Travel insurance; Visa fees; Lunches; Personal expenses; Tips - Full page: https://iraqijourneys.com/tours/northern-odyssey ### Southern Adventure - Price: $1950 per person · Duration: 8 Days / 7 Nights · Difficulty: Moderate · Region: Southern Iraq - Cities: Baghdad, Karbala, Najaf, Kufa, Nippur, Uruk, Ur, Chibayish, Qurna, Basra - Departures: 2026-11-20 to 2026-11-27 (10 seats left); 2027-01-14 to 2027-01-21 (8 seats left); 2027-03-18 to 2027-03-25 (10 seats left) **Summary:** Eight days through the deep south: the shrines, the ziggurats, the marshes and Basra's riverfront. Eight days through the deep south: the shrines of Karbala and Najaf, the Sumerian ziggurats of Nippur, Uruk and Ur, the desert fortress of Ukhaydir and one of the oldest churches in Iraq, the boat-builders of Kufa, the marshes, and Basra's riverfront. This edition adds the desert road between Karbala and Najaf, the meeting of the two rivers at Qurna, and Basra's museum in a former presidential palace. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Arrival in Baghdad: Evening stroll along the Tigris. A first night on Al-Mutanabbi Street. - Day 2 - Baghdad to Karbala: The shrines of Imam Hussein and Al-Abbas in Karbala, among the most sacred places in Iraq. - Day 3 - Karbala to Najaf via the Desert Road: The desert road: Ukhaydir, the great Abbasid fortress alone in the desert; Al-Uqaiser, one of the oldest churches in Iraq; the Al-Tar caves, which have sheltered travellers for centuries. Then Najaf: the shrine of Imam Ali and Wadi al-Salam, the largest cemetery in the world. - Day 4 - Najaf to the Marshes via Nippur & Uruk: The Sumerian heartland in one day: the ziggurat of Nippur, religious capital of Sumer; Uruk, where the first written words were inscribed; and the ziggurat of Ur. Evening at Chibayish, on the edge of the marshes. - Day 5 - Nasiriyah & the Marshes: A full day in the Garden of Eden: sunrise over the channels, the reed houses, the buffalo, a traditional boat, a family's lunch. The evening belongs to Nasiriyah's market town. - Day 6 - Qurna & Basra: Adam's Tree and the confluence of the two rivers at Qurna. Basra: the museum in the presidential-palace complex, the Shanasheel of the old town, the fish market, the stadium shaped like a date palm trunk, and a boat ride on the Shatt al-Arab at sunset. - Day 7 - Basra to Baghdad: Scenic drive back across the south with planned breaks. Farewell dinner in Baghdad. - Day 8 - Departure: Transfer to Baghdad International Airport. **Included:** All accommodations; Private transportation; English-speaking guide; All entrance fees; Breakfast and dinner daily; Nippur and Uruk ziggurats, Ukhaydir, Al-Uqaiser church, Kufa boat-building workshops, Basra Museum, Qurna confluence and Adam's Tree; Marsh boat rides; Airport transfers **Not included:** International flights; Travel insurance; Visa fees; Lunches; Personal expenses; Tips - Full page: https://iraqijourneys.com/tours/southern-adventure ### Complete Iraq - 14 Days - Price: $5200 per person · Duration: 14 Days / 13 Nights · Difficulty: Moderate · Region: Multi-Region Iraq - Cities: Basra, Qurna, Chibayish, Nasiriyah, Afak, Najaf, Al-Kifl, Babylon, Baghdad, Heet, Ramadi, Samarra, Hatra, Mosul, Hamdaniya, Alqosh, Lalish, Amadiya, Akre, Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Halabja, Kirkuk - Season: March - Departures: 2027-03-01 to 2027-03-14 (5 seats left) **Summary:** The country end to end: the marshes of Eden, the Sumerian ziggurats, the shrines of the south, the Euphrates of the west, the old city of Mosul, the mountains of Kurdistan. Fourteen days from the Shatt al-Arab to the Zagros. Dawn in Wadi al-Salam, the first written words at Uruk, masgouf cooked with a marsh family, the waterwheels of Heet, the Hadba Minaret rising again in Mosul, Lalish and the tomb of Nahum, a campfire night above Amadiya, the 500 steps of Akre, the citadel of Erbil, the memorial of Halabja. Nights in 4-star hotels, with three exceptions: a reed mudhif in the marshes, a family home in Ramadi, and a camp above Amadiya. Full board, private transport, all tickets, and a local specialist at each region. One published price per person. Room assignments - and any price difference that arises from them - are settled privately with Ali, never through the website. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Basra: Arrival & the Waterfront: Airport reception and transfer. Evening: the traditional markets, the Shatt al-Arab corniche, a river boat tour, and tea on the rooftop of the tallest building in Basra as the city lights come on below. - Day 2 - Basra: Museums, Old City & Beyond: The Basra Cultural and Natural Museums in the former presidential palace complex; the Sumerian boat-building workshop. Old Basra's Shanasheel and market; lunch in an old heritage house turned restaurant; the fish market. The Trunk of the Palm stadium. The Step (Khatwa) Mosque of Zubair, among the oldest mosques in Iraq, and its old alleys. Date sweets from Abu Al-Khaseeb. - Day 3 - Qurna & Chibayish: The confluence of the Tigris and Euphrates, and Adam's Tree of legend. A welcome by the marsh dwellers: preparing masgouf together, a balam boat among the buffalo, and a night in a Sumerian reed mudhif with conversation by the fire. - Day 4 - Ur, Nippur & Najaf: A marsh-dwellers' breakfast, then the Ziggurat of Ur with its temples, the oldest courthouse and the oldest arch in history, the royal palace and royal cemetery. The Ziggurat of Nippur at Afak, religious capital of Sumer. Evening: the Kufa Mosque, the House of Imam Ali, and the Kufa corniche on the Euphrates. - Day 5 - Najaf, Babylon & Baghdad: Wadi al-Salam at dawn. The Imam Ali Shrine and the old alleys of Najaf within its walls; the street of bookstores. The boat-builders of Kufa, who still export to all of Iraq. The shrine of Prophet Dhul-Kifl (Ezekiel) at the Al-Nukhailah Mosque. Babylon: palaces, temples, the Processional Street, the Ishtar Gate and the Lion of Babylon, then the palace of Saddam overlooking the ruins. Sunset over Hilla. - Day 6 - Baghdad: Kahi and gaimar breakfast. The Mustansiriya Madrasah, Al-Saray market, Al-Mutanabbi Street and its statue, a river tour on the Tigris, the Qashla and its clock tower, the Liberation Monument, the Abu Nuwas corniche, and the statue of Scheherazade and Shahryar from the Thousand and One Nights. - Day 7 - Anbar: Heet & Ramadi: Khan Dhari, ground of the 1920 Revolution. Heet: the ancient citadel, the natural bitumen springs, and the waterwheels of the Euphrates, one of the oldest irrigation systems in the world. A workshop where sesame paste and date syrup are made the old way. Night with a local family in Ramadi. - Day 8 - Samarra, Hatra & Mosul: The Malwiya of Samarra, the Pool Palace, the historic prison of Imam Ali al-Hadi. Hatra, the first Iraqi site on the World Heritage List, and its sunset. A heritage hotel in Mosul and a traditional Mosuli dinner. - Day 9 - Nineveh & Mosul: The Grand Al-Tahira Church of Qaraqosh, visited by Pope Francis; the Qaraqosh Syriac heritage museum. The wall of Nineveh and its gates; the mosque of Prophet Jonah above the Assyrian palace. Hosh al-Bieaa, where four churches gather around a cathedral. The Great Al-Nouri Mosque and the Hadba Minaret; the war ruins; the Baytna Foundation's Mosuli Heritage Museum, where young Mosulis rebuilt their city from the rubble. - Day 10 - Alqosh, Lalish & Amadiya: The Rabban Hormizd Monastery carved into the mountain; the old village of Alqosh and its heritage museum; the restored tomb of the Prophet Nahum. Lalish, the holy temple of the Yazidis. Camp on the mountain above Amadiya, watching the sunset over the mesa. - Day 11 - Amadiya to Akre: Amadiya, the city of a thousand houses where building has ceased since ancient times. Shanidar Cave, where the remains of ten Neanderthals have been found. Akre: lunch in a village, the mosque and the market, then 500 steps up the old alleys to the citadel, on the path the town follows at Newroz, with sunset at the highest point of the town. - Day 12 - Akre to Erbil: The Erbil Citadel, one of the oldest continuously inhabited urban centers in the world, and its surrounding market with heritage cafes. The Mudhafaria Minaret. Lunch at Sami Abdulrahman Park. Iskan Street and Erbil nightlife with the locals. - Day 13 - Erbil, Sulaymaniyah & Halabja: A long morning drive to the Halabja Monument and its war relics. Byara in the Hawraman mountains, a UNESCO cultural landscape: a light hike on the Iraqi-Iranian border and a local lunch. Sulaymaniyah: the Grand Mosque, the Grand Bazaar, the Qashla. Salim Street and Sarchinar for the night. - Day 14 - Kirkuk to Erbil: The archaeological Kirkuk Citadel, where mosques, churches and shrines of prophets stand together; the wax museum of the Qashla. Ankawa on the edge of Erbil, then assisted departure at Erbil Airport. End of program. **Included:** 14-day guided program from Basra Airport pickup to Erbil Airport drop-off; English-speaking guide throughout, with specialist local guides at Ur, Nippur, Hatra, Lalish, Erbil and Mosul; Private transportation including fuel and driving; 14 nights in 4-star hotels (or best available equivalent), including three special nights (a reed mudhif in the marshes, a family home in Ramadi, a camp above Amadiya); Full-board meals - breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; All entry tickets to the listed archaeological and cultural sites; All activities (marsh boat, Shatt al-Arab boat, river tours, hikes); The program is open to adjustment to suit the traveler **Not included:** International flights to/from Iraq; Iraqi visa fees; Travel insurance; Personal expenses (souvenirs, minibar, laundry); Tips for guide and driver (optional) - Full page: https://iraqijourneys.com/tours/complete-iraq ### UNESCO Heritage Expedition - Price: $1250 per person · Duration: 5 Days / 4 Nights · Difficulty: Easy · Region: Northern Iraq - Cities: Baghdad, Samarra, Tikrit, Hatra, Mosul, Qaraqosh, Mar Mattai, Erbil - Season: December - Departures: 2026-12-21 to 2026-12-21 (10 seats left) **Summary:** Iraq's northern World Heritage sites in one focused trip: Samarra, Hatra, Mosul and Erbil. A short, gentle route through the north's World Heritage sites: the Abbasid capital of Samarra, the sun temple city of Hatra, the reconstruction of Mosul's old city under the UNESCO Revive the Spirit of Mosul initiative, and the Erbil Citadel, inhabited for more than 6,000 years. All nights in hotels, walking at your own pace. Built for travelers who want the World Heritage experience without the long routes. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Baghdad: Arrival & First Impressions: Meet & assist at Baghdad International Airport, transfer to the hotel, rest. Evening: Al-Mutanabbi and Al-Rasheed streets, the heritage heart of the capital, with local food. Overnight: Baghdad. - Day 2 - Samarra: The Abbasid capital: the Malwiya spiral minaret and the great mosque of Samarra, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2007. The Abu Dulaf Minaret. The Pool (Al-Baraka) Palace with its great water basin. The historic prison of Imam Ali al-Hadi. Lunch at Tikrit, then continue to Mosul. Overnight: Mosul. - Day 3 - Hatra: The City of the Sun: Hatra, the first Iraqi site on the World Heritage List (1985) - the circular double walls, the great iwans standing to full height, the Temple of the Sun and the shrines of its many gods, and the story of the goddess Shahiro. The stones still carry the bullet marks of 2015; the walls are rising again. Return via the sulfur springs of Hammam Al-Alil. Overnight: Mosul, with an evening heritage dinner at the Baytna Foundation's Antica cafe. - Day 4 - Mosul, Qaraqosh & Mar Mattai: Sunrise at Bashtabia castle over the Tigris, with lah'am b'ajeen. The reconstruction of the Al-Nuri Mosque and the Hadba Minaret, Al-Tahira Church and Hosh al-Bayaa - the sites of the UNESCO Revive the Spirit of Mosul initiative. Then Qaraqosh: the Grand Al-Tahira Church, the largest in Iraq, where Pope Francis prayed in 2021. Mar Mattai, the ancient monastery on its mountainside, is last; a night there is possible on request. Overnight: Mosul. - Day 5 - Erbil & Departure: The Erbil Citadel - UNESCO World Heritage since 2014 and one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on earth - and the Qaysari Bazaar below it, the Mudhafaria Minaret. Transfer to Erbil International Airport for departure. End of program. **Included:** 5-day guided program from Baghdad Airport pickup to Erbil Airport drop-off; English-speaking guide throughout; Private air-conditioned transportation; 4-star hotels (or best available equivalent); Full board; All entrance fees - Samarra, Hatra, Erbil Citadel, Mar Mattai and the Mosul heritage sites; The Hammam Al-Alil hot springs; Airport transfers; 24/7 support during the trip **Not included:** International flights; Iraqi visa fees; Travel insurance; Personal expenses; Tips for guide and driver or locals we meet (optional) - Full page: https://iraqijourneys.com/tours/unesco-heritage-expedition ### Deep Sumer & the Anbar Road - Price: $2250 per person · Duration: 8 Days / 7 Nights · Difficulty: Moderate · Region: Multi-Region Iraq - Cities: Basra, Qurna, Chibayish, Nasiriyah, Uruk, Afak, Najaf, Karbala, Babylon, Baghdad, Heet, Ramadi, Samarra, Hatra, Mosul - Season: Winter - Departures: 2027-01-30 to 2027-01-30 (10 seats left) **Summary:** The south's deepest secrets and the Euphrates of the west: from Basra's riverfront to Hatra. Built from the winter itinerary Ali runs himself: the museums and Shanasheel of Basra, a night in a marsh mudhif, the three great ziggurats of Ur, Uruk and Nippur in a single day, the desert fortress of Ukhaydir, the bitumen springs and waterwheels of Heet, and the sun temple city of Hatra at the end. Days run from about seven in the morning until nine at night. Photography help is included. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Basra: The Basra Civilization Museum of southern Mesopotamia. The Hasson Antique Museum and its collection of Iraqi heritage. Old Basra and its Shanasheel. Basra Sports City. A sunset boat tour on the Shatt al-Arab, where the Tigris and Euphrates meet before the Gulf. Overnight: Basra. - Day 2 - Qurna & the Chibayish Marshes: The confluence of the Tigris and Euphrates at Qurna. The marshlands: a traditional reed guesthouse, masgouf grilled over an open fire, a boat tour among the channels, birds and buffalo. Overnight: a mudhif in Chibayish. - Day 3 - Ur, Uruk & Nippur, then Najaf: The Ziggurat of Ur, crown of the Sumerians. The Ziggurat of Uruk, city of the first written word. The Ziggurat of Nippur, spiritual center of the Sumerian world. Overnight: Najaf. - Day 4 - Kufa, Najaf & Karbala: The palm orchards of Kufa and its boat-building workshops. Wadi al-Salam, the largest cemetery in the world, and the Imam Ali Shrine. Khan Al-Musallah, the old caravanserai-bazaar. Ukhaydir, the great desert fortress of the early Islamic period. Al-Uqaiser, one of the oldest churches in Iraq. The Al-Tar caves. The shrines of Imam Hussein and Al-Abbas in Karbala. Overnight: Karbala. - Day 5 - Babylon, Kish & Sippar, then Baghdad: The ancient city of Babylon - Hammurabi, Nebuchadnezzar, the Hanging Gardens. Kish, the early Sumerian city of the king lists. Sippar, city of the sun god Shamash. Al-Tahrir Square and the Freedom Monument of modern Baghdad. Overnight: Baghdad. - Day 6 - Baghdad: Bab Al-Wastani, the middle gate of old Baghdad. The 13th-century Mustansiriya School. Al-Mutanabbi Street, the cultural heart of the capital. Souq Al-Saray for books, paper and antiques. The Qishla and its Ottoman clock tower. The statue of Scheherazade and Shahryar. Overnight: Baghdad. - Day 7 - Anbar: Heet & Ramadi: The Euphrates of the west. Heet: the natural bitumen springs that have burned for centuries, the ancient citadel, and the waterwheels, one of the oldest irrigation systems in the world. A workshop where sesame paste and date syrup are made the old way. Ramadi in the evening, with a relaxed local gathering. Overnight: Ramadi. - Day 8 - Samarra, Hatra & Mosul: The spiral Minaret of Samarra and the historic prison of Imam Ali al-Hadi. Hatra, the city that Rome never took, its temples and great iwans. The sulfur springs of Hammam Al-Alil for a rest at the end of the road. Arrival in Mosul. End of the trip; departure transfer to Erbil Airport arranged. **Included:** All accommodations (4-star hotels or best available; one night in a traditional marsh mudhif); Private air-conditioned transportation with driver; English-speaking guide (Ali) throughout; Breakfast and dinner daily; The Chibayish marsh package (traditional lunch, boat tour, dinner, overnight, breakfast); All entrance fees to the listed archaeological and cultural sites; The Shatt al-Arab boat tour; Photography assistance; Airport transfers **Not included:** International flights; Iraqi visa fees; Travel insurance; Lunches (except the marsh day); Personal expenses; Tips for guide, driver and unofficial site guards - Full page: https://iraqijourneys.com/tours/deep-sumer-anbar ### Iraq Grand Journey - Price: $2590 per person · Duration: 10 Days / 9 Nights · Difficulty: Moderate · Region: Central Iraq - Cities: Baghdad, Babylon, Najaf, Nasiriyah, Chibayish, Basra, Samarra, Hatra, Mosul, Erbil - Departures: 2026-12-27 to 2027-01-05 (10 seats left); 2027-03-26 to 2027-04-04 (10 seats left); 2027-11-03 to 2027-11-12 (10 seats left) **Summary:** The whole country in ten days: from the Tigris in Baghdad to the citadel of Erbil. The first visit to Iraq, done properly. Ten days from Baghdad to Erbil through Babylon, the Garden of Eden, the ziggurats of the Sumerians, the spiral of Samarra, the Parthian walls of Hatra and the reborn old city of Mosul. Full board, a private air-conditioned coaster, a guide with you the whole way, and every entry ticket included. One published price per person. Room assignments - and any price difference that arises from them - are settled privately with Ali, never through the website. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Baghdad: Arrival & First Impressions: Meet & assist at Baghdad International Airport, private transfer to the hotel, rest. A relaxed orientation tour of the city's key viewpoints. Overnight: Baghdad. - Day 2 - Baghdad: Heritage Day: Al-Mustansiriya School, landmark of Abbasid-era education and architecture. Bab Al-Wastani, the last surviving historic gate of old Baghdad's walls. Taq Kasra at Ctesiphon, the most dramatic pre-Islamic monumental arch in the region. Overnight: Baghdad. - Day 3 - Babylon to Najaf: The archaeological city of Babylon: the Ishtar Gate, the Lion of Babylon, the Processional Street, the site of the Hanging Gardens. The Imam Ali Shrine in Najaf, and the Valley of Peace, the biggest cemetery in the world. Overnight: Najaf. - Day 4 - Uruk (Warka) to Nasiriyah: The Ziggurat of Uruk, where the first written words in history were inscribed, and the Ziggurat of Ur, crown of the Sumerian civilization. Overnight: Nasiriyah. - Day 5 - Chibayish Marshes, Qurna & Basra: The marshes of Chibayish: local breakfast, a traditional boat ride and lunch inside a unique wetland culture. The confluence of the Tigris and Euphrates near Qurna. Basra at night: a soft walk along the waterfront. Overnight: Basra. - Day 6 - Basra: Museums, Old City & Modern Icons: The Basra Museum in its riverside complex. Old Basra and its Shanasheel balconies. The Jadha Al-Nakhla stadium, Iraq's largest. A traditional Ashari boat ride on the Shatt al-Arab. Overnight: Basra. - Day 7 - Back to Baghdad: Comfortable road transfer with planned breaks. The Abbasid Palace, a rare surviving Abbasid structure on the Tigris. The Iraqi National Museum - the context for the Sumerian, Babylonian and Assyrian history you have just walked through. Overnight: Baghdad. - Day 8 - Samarra, Hatra & Mosul: The Malwiya spiral minaret of Samarra, the strongest visual of Abbasid architecture. Hatra, the fortified desert city that withstood Rome. Arrival and check-in in Mosul. Overnight: Mosul. - Day 9 - Mosul: Nineveh & Old City: The Nineveh Wall and a main gate, the remains of an Assyrian imperial capital. Bashtabia, the riverside fortress zone overlooking the Tigris. Hosh al-Bieaa, the square of four churches and one cathedral. The Al-Nuri Mosque and the Hadba Minaret legacy site, the city's most iconic revival landmark. Overnight: Mosul. - Day 10 - Hamdaniya to Erbil: The Grand Al-Tahira Church of Hamdaniya, a major heritage church of the Nineveh Plains. Drive to Erbil, capital of the Kurdistan Region, and assisted departure at Erbil Airport. End of program. **Included:** 10-day guided program from Baghdad Airport pickup to Erbil Airport drop-off; Professional English-speaking tour guide throughout; Private air-conditioned coaster with a dedicated driver for all transfers and daily tours; 4-star hotels (or best available equivalent); Full-board meals - breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; All entry tickets to the ten listed sites (Al-Mustansiriya School, the Abbasid Palace, the Iraqi National Museum, Babylon, Ziggurat of Uruk, Ziggurat of Ur, Basra Museum, Samarra Malwiya, Hatra, Bab Al-Wastani); The Chibayish Marshes experience (local breakfast, traditional boat ride, lunch); The Shatt al-Arab Ashari boat ride in Basra **Not included:** International flights to/from Iraq; Iraqi visa fees; Travel insurance; Personal expenses (souvenirs, minibar, laundry); Tips for guide and driver (optional) - Full page: https://iraqijourneys.com/tours/iraq-grand-journey ## Destination guides ### The Mesopotamian Marshes - The Garden of Eden A labyrinth of reeds and shimmering waterways where the Tigris and Euphrates meet - the legendary Garden of Eden. Home of the Marsh Arabs and the Ma'dan, who still build their mudhif reed houses and pole their mashoof canoes as their ancestors did five thousand years ago. UNESCO World Heritage since 2016. - Region: Dhi Qar & Basra, Southern Iraq - People: The Ma'dan - Marsh Arabs - Home: Mudhif reed houses - UNESCO: World Heritage since 2016 **Photo gallery:** The Garden of Eden - panorama of the marshes · Reed houses of Chibayish · The marshes from above, Dhi Qar · A Ma'dan village on the water · Date palm groves of the Shatt al-Arab · Shatt al-Arab, Basra · The marshes of Iraq - the waters that cradle civilization · The Mesopotamian Marshes at night · A buffalo herder waves from his dwelling near Suq al-Shuyukh · A Marsh Arab poling a mashoof through the reeds - Full guide: https://iraqijourneys.com/landmarks/mesopotamian-marshes ### Amedi - The Citadel on the Mesa Founded before 3000 BC, Amedi has watched over the road between Mesopotamia and the mountains for five thousand years. Perched 3,900 feet above the plains of Duhok on a single flat-topped mesa, it was the seat of the Bahdinan emirate, home to the Great Mosque, a synagogue and a tomb attributed to Ezekiel - conquered by Assyrians, Medes, Parthians and Romans, and never abandoned. - Founded: Before 3000 BC - Elevation: 3,900 ft above the plain - Seat of: The Bahdinan Emirate - Region: Duhok, Iraqi Kurdistan **Photo gallery:** Bird's eye view of Amedi on its mesa · The Badinan Gate · The Badinan Gate, entrance to the Citadel · Minaret of the Great Mosque of Amedi · Amedi Gate, 1994 · Amedi from the Badinan Gate - Full guide: https://iraqijourneys.com/landmarks/amedi ### Hatra - The Sun Temple City A walled city of the Parthian era that rose from the desert at the crossroads of the Roman and Persian worlds. Hatra's great circular city, ringed by double walls, sheltered the Temple of the Sun and the shrines of its many gods. It survived two Roman sieges, was sacked with the fall of the empire, and became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985. After its deliberate destruction in 2015, its walls are slowly rising again - a monument to endurance. - Founded: 3rd century BC - Builders: The Parthian Empire - UNESCO: World Heritage since 1985 - Region: Nineveh Plains, Northern Iraq **Photo gallery:** The great Temple of the Sun at Hatra · The carved stone of the northern cities · Walls that outlived empires · The desert plains around Hatra · The northern route, from Erbil to Hatra · The waterways of northern Iraq - Full guide: https://iraqijourneys.com/landmarks/hatra ### Erbil Citadel - The Oldest Inhabited City on Earth Perched on a 30-metre mound at the heart of Erbil, the Citadel has been continuously inhabited for over 6,000 years - a living testament to the enduring spirit of Mesopotamia, and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2014. - Age: 6,000+ years inhabited - Mound: 30 metres above Erbil - UNESCO: World Heritage since 2014 - Region: Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan **Photo gallery:** The Erbil Citadel at day · The Citadel at dusk · The castle in the heart of Hawler · Erbil Citadel, 2024 · Old houses around the Citadel · The archaeological walls of the Citadel - Full guide: https://iraqijourneys.com/landmarks/erbil-citadel ## Traveler FAQ ### [Safety & Travel] Is Iraq safe for tourists? Iraq gets a fair hearing from travelers once they are actually here, but the question deserves an honest answer, not a slogan. Most foreign governments advise against all travel to specific parts of Iraq, and every visitor should read their own government's advice before booking. The areas we operate in - Baghdad's tourist districts, the heritage cities of the south, the marsh country, and the Kurdistan Region - are a different picture: they see steady tour traffic, and a local operator manages the things a visitor cannot manage alone. I plan every route against current security reports, travel with vetted drivers, keep in touch with local authorities through the day, and stay with my travelers from the airport gate to the departure lounge. That is the honest version of "yes, with a guide." ### [Safety & Travel] Is it safe for solo travelers? Many of my travelers come alone, including women traveling by themselves. You are never on your own once the trip starts - I or one of my team is with you through the day, and the hotels we use are in the parts of town where visitors stay. If you have booked as a solo traveler, tell me and I will make sure the itinerary and the hotels suit it. ### [Safety & Travel] What about health concerns? There is no mandatory vaccination for most visitors, with one real exception: if you arrive from a country with yellow fever transmission, you must carry a yellow fever certificate. What is recommended, per the CDC: be up to date on routine vaccines (including MMR), and consider hepatitis A, hepatitis B, and typhoid vaccinations before the trip. Rabies is present in stray dogs - admire them from a distance. Drink bottled or treated water (we provide it throughout), and do not swim in fresh, unchlorinated water, which is how schistosomiasis is caught; our marsh trips keep everyone in the boats. Medical care is limited outside the big cities, so travel insurance with medical evacuation is the one thing I will not argue about. ### [Visas & Documentation] Do I need a visa to visit Iraq? Yes - everyone needs a visa, and the rules changed in 2024-2026. The old visa-on-arrival at Iraqi airports is no longer available; you must apply for a federal e-visa on the Iraqi government's portal (eservice.evisa.iq) before you fly. As of 2026 the fee is $160, the visa is valid for 60 days, and the application should be made at least 24 hours before travel - start earlier, because the portal's processing time varies. Your passport needs at least six months' validity and one blank page, and you will need a return or onward ticket; without one the airline can refuse boarding. The Kurdistan Region of Iraq runs a separate visa system - see the Kurdistan question below. ### [Visas & Documentation] How do I get a visa? Apply online at eservice.evisa.iq (federal Iraq) or visit.gov.krd (Kurdistan Region). The application takes about twenty minutes: passport scan, photo, and payment. The federal e-visa costs $160 and is valid for 60 days. Once you book, I send a step-by-step guide for your nationality - the exact document list, photo requirements, and how long to allow - so nothing is discovered at the airport. ### [Visas & Documentation] Can I travel to Iraqi Kurdistan with the same visa? This is where the rules tightened. The Kurdistan Region now issues its own e-visa (via visit.gov.krd) and it covers travel in the Kurdistan Region only; the federal e-visa covers federal Iraq. If your itinerary crosses both - a common route is Baghdad and the south, then up to Erbil - we plan the visa application around your exact route and send you the instructions for both. Tell me which airports you are flying into and out of and I will confirm which visa or combination you need before you apply. ### [Booking & Expeditions] How do I book an expedition? Book directly through this website - the booking form, or the expedition page for the tour you want. You can also reach me on WhatsApp. I confirm availability within 24 hours and send the itinerary and payment instructions. ### [Booking & Expeditions] What is the payment process? A 30% deposit confirms your booking; the remaining 70% is due 30 days before the tour starts. Payments go by bank transfer, Wise, or Western Union. I do not process credit cards directly at the moment - if you need an alternative arrangement, ask and we will work something out. ### [Booking & Expeditions] What is your cancellation policy? Free cancellation up to 60 days before the tour, with a full refund. Between 60 and 30 days, 50% is refunded. Within 30 days there is no refund, but I will always try to move your booking to another date rather than leave you with nothing. ### [Booking & Expeditions] Can I customize a tour? Every tour is private and can be reshaped around your dates, pace, and interests. Use the Design Your Trip page to describe what you want, and I will come back with an itinerary and a per-person cost estimate before you commit to anything. ### [Travel Logistics] What should I pack? Comfortable walking shoes, modest clothing for religious sites (long trousers, covered shoulders - a scarf that can do double duty as a head covering), sunscreen, insect repellent, a reusable water bottle, and a camera. I send a full packing list after booking, including what to leave at home. ### [Travel Logistics] What is the food like? Iraqi food is one of the trip's highlights. Expect masgouf (the national dish - Tigris carp, grilled over an open flame), kebabs, rice dishes, fresh bread from the tandoor, and tea that will be offered to you constantly. Vegetarian options are easy to find everywhere; tell me about any dietary needs when you book and I will carry them through the whole trip. ### [Travel Logistics] What language is spoken? Arabic and Kurdish are the official languages. English is spoken at hotels and in tourist settings, and I am fluent in all three - you will not be relying on gestures. ### [Travel Logistics] What currency should I bring? The Iraqi dinar (IQD) is the currency. US dollars are widely accepted and often preferred for larger payments; bring crisp, recent notes, because older or damaged bills get refused. ATMs work in the big cities. One rule to know: on entry and exit you must declare cash over $10,000 (or the equivalent), and local currency over 200,000 dinars. ### [Connectivity & Internet] Is there internet and mobile coverage in Iraq? Yes. 4G/LTE covers all the major cities and most towns, via Zain, Asiacell, and Korek. I help you buy a local SIM on arrival - a data package runs about $10-15 for 10-20GB. Every hotel we use has WiFi. The honest gaps: the deep marshes and the mountain valleys can drop coverage entirely, and that is genuinely part of the trip. ### [Connectivity & Internet] Will I have access to WiFi at accommodations? All the hotels and lodges we book have WiFi. City hotels are fast; mountain lodges and marsh guesthouses are often on slower satellite links. Download your maps and documents before you leave the city - the backup is cheaper than the frustration. ### [Photography & Media] Can I take photos? Photography is welcome at the sites - it is half the reason people come. The rule of thumb: never photograph military personnel, checkpoints, or government buildings. I will tell you on the spot what is fine and what is not; asking a soldier before pointing a camera is always the right move. ### [Photography & Media] Can I fly my drone? Leave the drone at home. Flying drones in Iraq requires a permit from the Iraqi authorities, and the practical odds of getting one in time for a holiday are close to zero. If you need aerial footage for professional work, message me before booking and we can discuss whether it is feasible on your route. ### [About the Brand] What is Iraqi Journeys with Ali? Iraqi Journeys with Ali is a private tour operator founded in 2016 by Ali Jasim, a local guide born in Najaf and based in Baghdad. We lead small, private expeditions across Iraq - ancient Mesopotamia, the Marshes of Eden and Iraqi Kurdistan - with more than 70 tours and 1,500+ travelers from 20+ countries to date. Every tour is led personally by Ali and booked directly through this website. ### [About the Brand] Who is Ali Jasim? Ali Jasim is an Iraqi guide born in Najaf and based in Baghdad, and the founder of Iraqi Journeys with Ali. He has guided travelers through Iraq since 2016, speaks English, Arabic and Kurdish, and personally leads every expedition. His full story is on the About page. ### [About the Brand] Are you affiliated with any other tour service that uses a similar name? No. Iraqi Journeys with Ali is an independent company founded in 2016 by Ali Jasim and based in Baghdad. We are not affiliated with any other tour service that uses a similar name. To be sure you are booking with us, use this website only - our expeditions, departures and prices are listed on the Expeditions page. - All FAQs: https://iraqijourneys.com/faq ## Journal (travel stories and guides) ### Erbil Citadel: The Oldest City on Earth - By Ali Jasim · Tags: Erbil, Kurdistan, UNESCO Six thousand years of continuous habitation on one mound - and the bazaar below that is still gloriously, stubbornly alive. Eight Thousand Years on One Mound Erbil Citadel does not sit on a hill. The hill is the citadel. Generations built, collapsed, and rebuilt on the same mound for at least six thousand years - some say eight - until the whole mound became a layered city, ringed by walls, crowned with a maze of alleys and courtyard houses. From the top, the view is the story of Iraq in one glance: the bazaar spreading below, the mountains of Kurdistan blue on the horizon, and the minaret of the Mudhafaria rising beside the mound like a cousin of Samarra's spiral. The Kurdish Sun The citadel is the heart of Erbil, and Erbil is the heart of Iraqi Kurdistan. Above its gates, the Kurdish sun - a radiant disk of twenty-one rays - remembers the ancient sun worship of the Medes. The old city is a place where that memory is still worn, still spoken, still poured into glasses of tea. Wandering the Qaysari Bazaar Descend from the citadel and you step into the Qaysari Bazaar, where textile dyers hang bolts of cloth over the walkways like flags. The smell of cardamom and leather mixes with the sound of bargaining in three languages. It is one of the oldest market streets in the world, and it remains gloriously, stubbornly alive. "A city that has been inhabited continuously for six thousand years has learned something about hospitality." - Ali Jasim, on Erbil When You Visit Erbil is the natural gateway to the north - it opens the Iraqi Kurdistan Trek - and the citadel rewards both a quick sunset visit and a full morning of wandering. Take both if you can. - Full story: https://iraqijourneys.com/blog/erbil-citadel-the-oldest-city-on-earth ### Samarra: The Spiral That Points to the Sky - By Ali Jasim, 2026-08-02 · Tags: Samarra, Abbasid, Central Iraq Nine coils of brick rising fifty-two metres over the Tigris - climbing the Malwiya, and what the Abbasid age still has to say to a traveller today. The Spiral That Points to the Sky Nothing prepares you for the Malwiya. From the flat banks of the Tigris at Samarra, a spiral of brick rises fifty-two metres into the air - a ramp that coils around itself nine times, built in the ninth century for the Abbasid caliph al-Mutawakkil. Climb its seven hundred steps, and the whole of the Mesopotamian plain unfolds below: the great mosque at your feet, the river bending to the south, and Baghdad a whisper on the horizon. Why It Matters The Malwiya is a reminder of what the Abbasid age actually was. While Europe slept through its early-medieval winters, Samarra was the largest city on earth, and the House of Wisdom in Baghdad was translating the world's knowledge into Arabic. The minaret is not a relic of that age. It is its exclamation mark. Beside the minaret, the ruins of the Great Mosque of Samarra still sprawl across seventeen hectares - one of the largest mosques ever built. For a traveller, the visit is an hour in the presence of scale. "The spiral is said to have been inspired by a ziggurat, or perhaps by a tower built by the wind itself." - an old guide's story, Samarra On the Practical Side Getting there: Samarra is a comfortable day trip from Baghdad - about ninety minutes by private car on the modern road. - Best time: late afternoon, when the brick turns rose in the setting sun. - Combining it: the Central Iraq leg of the Mesopotamia Odyssey pairs Samarra with Ctesiphon's arch in a single day. - - Full story: https://iraqijourneys.com/blog/samarra-the-spiral-minaret ### Hatra: The City That Rome Never Took - By Ali Jasim, 2026-07-26 · Tags: Hatra, History, Nineveh Plains Twice the legions besieged it, twice they marched away with nothing. Walking the great iwans of the sun temple city - and the story of the goddess Shahiro. The City That Rome Never Took Out in the desert of the Nineveh Plains, forty minutes from the modern road, the sun temple city of Hatra rises from the sand. Twice the Roman legions besieged it. Twice they marched away with nothing. For three centuries this circular city of the Parthian world stood as the frontier between two empires - and it remains the best-preserved fortified city of antiquity anywhere in the region. Walking through the Great Iwans - the colossal arched halls that still stand to their full height - you feel the scale of the place. These are not ruins in the usual sense. They are architecture that has simply outlived its builders. Hatra and the Goddess Shahiro The old temples of Hatra honoured Shahiro, the Lady of the First Light - the dawn that breaks over the northern plains. Her image, painted in gold and lapis, kept watch over the city's thresholds. The guide's grandmother told him the old story: even in the desert, the light always returns. Hatra is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the work of preservation is ongoing. Visiting is not only safe - it is a way of standing with that work. Practical Notes Access: Hatra is a full-day excursion from Mosul or Erbil, and is included in the Northern Odyssey tour. - Best light: the late afternoon, when the ochre stone glows. - Carry: water, a hat, and a sense of scale. You will need the third the most. - - Full story: https://iraqijourneys.com/blog/hatra-the-city-that-rome-never-took ### A Dawn in the Mesopotamian Marshes - By Ali Jasim, 2026-07-12 · Tags: Marshes, Southern Iraq, Culture Gliding through the reed channels of Chibayish as the first light of morning turns the water to gold - a glimpse of the Iraq that guidebooks cannot prepare you for. Before Dawn on the Water The mashoof glides without a sound. Ahead of us, the reeds of the Mesopotamian Marshes rise higher than a man on horseback, and the first light of morning turns the channels to hammered gold. This is the Iraq that guidebooks cannot prepare you for. The Marsh Arabs - the Ma'dan - have built their mudhif reed houses here for five thousand years, exactly as their ancestors did. To sit inside one, under its vaulted arch of bundled qasab reeds, with tea being poured over cardamom, is to understand that civilization did not merely begin here. It still lives here. The Rhythm of Marsh Life A day in the marshes unfolds slowly, and that is the point. Water buffalo wade past the house at dawn. Fishermen repair their nets on the platforms. Children row to school in canoes. By late afternoon the light turns amber, and the water becomes a mirror of the sky. "We did not come to the marshes to see a place. We came to see how people live in a place that time forgot to ruin." - a traveler, Chibayish When to Go October to April is the sweet season - mild days, cool nights, and the water high enough to reach the deepest channels. The expeditions from our Mesopotamian Marshes itinerary time the paddles for dawn and dusk, when the birds are loudest and the light is softest. The Ziggurat, an Hour Away Forty minutes from the marsh village lies the great Ziggurat of Ur - the stairway to heaven built by Ur-Nammu around 2100 BCE, and the traditional birthplace of Abraham. It rises out of the desert like a mountain made by hand. Stand at its base at sunset, and the seven thousand years between you and the Sumerians collapse to nothing. - Full story: https://iraqijourneys.com/blog/a-dawn-in-the-mesopotamian-marshes ## Facts about traveling to Iraq - Iraq is safe for travelers who go with a trusted local guide; routes are vetted and drivers are known personally. - No special vaccinations are required, but being up to date on routine vaccines is recommended. - Most nationalities can get a visa on arrival (~15-30 minutes, around $75 USD) at Baghdad, Erbil, Basra and Najaf. - The Iraqi visa covers both federal Iraq and the Kurdistan Region - no separate permit is needed. - The Iraqi Dinar (IQD) is the local currency; US Dollars are widely accepted; ATMs exist in major cities. - 4G/LTE is excellent in cities (Zain, Asiacell, Korek); remote areas like the Marshes may have limited coverage. - Photography is welcome at most sites; avoid photographing military personnel, checkpoints and government buildings. - Drone flying is restricted and requires special permits - Ali advises not bringing a drone. - Cancellation: free up to 60 days before departure, 50% refund 30-60 days out, no refund within 30 days (rescheduling possible). - Iraqi Journeys with Ali is an independent company, not affiliated with any other tour service using a similar name.